Biking the streets of Porto Novo

** I wrote this post on Tuesday, July 3rd**

Hi Everyone,

Wow, what a day! I get the feeling I’m just beginning to understand the meaning of tired.

Today we had informational classes for all the Peace Corps volunteers. It was so nice to see everyone and just be in a group of ‘fellow Americans’. Classes however, were a little bit trying. During orientation, the first two days or so in Benin, organization and effective planning wasn’t really the strongest point. I don’t think there was a single hand out that successfully made it to all of us on the first attempt. That didn’t really bother me though. Everyone doesn’t need to be as task-accomplishment-oriented as Americans, and I wasn’t in a particular hurry.

Today things were different. I was anxious to get my cell phone and I was also anxious about the health briefing. Between being in an unfamiliar context, a tropical location, and a country without many amenities like refrigeration, there is a lot to be vigilant about. I was aware of that going in, but I thought it wouldn’t be a problem for me because I can be pretty responsible and I also don’t tend to stress out about cleanliness in general the way many do. However, being vigilant about my health requires a lot of work (boiling /and/ filtering water for example). Even if that isn’t a lot for me to handle, it’s a lot to ask of my host mom. For a while I felt pretty discouraged by the challenge and the potential cultural pitfalls. However, after talking with other volunteers I did feel encouraged that sharing the things I learn about health with my family could be beneficial for them. Commiserating in general was beneficial.

We did finally get our cellphones (email me if you want to spend your $$ calling and texting me!). Setting up communication has taken longer than I thought, but I think I’m on the road to success. Heidi said that she found a cyber café close to our houses, and I am seriously considering buying an internet key. Many volunteers have settled with telling their families that ‘no news is good news’ and seem to feel like a little space while they adjust is best. I can certainly sympathize when there is so much to take in and learn and adjust to here around us. However (and I know many volunteers feel this way too), I made a commitment to stay in touch with the people back home. I want you all to get to share in this experience, and I want to know what’s going on State side, especially with my family. Again, I know this has been a little bit of a bumpy start, but that’s a commitment I’m  still taking seriously.

Back to the day: Somewhere towards the end of the lectures there was a somewhat random announcement, “Oh, and your bikes are here!” We are all grateful for the transportation option. However, this was inconvenient for most of us who weren’t intending to bike home. In many cases, including mine,  we aren’t exactly sure of where we live yet, (if you remember me saying I wasn’t really sure what street I lived on in Hawaii, this is strikingly similar). Heidi and I had planned to get a ride home from my host papa. In then end, I did call him (on my cellphone!) and when he came to pick us up, he recommended that we ride behind the car, so he could lead us home. Heidi and I both looked at each other, and with a mix of excitement and intimidation said, “Ok!”

Oh man, riding on the streets of Proto Novo. It was of course crazy, and exhausting, I came home with a throat caked in sand, and most of the time I was half wondering what we would do if we lost track of my host papa. But it was also so great. It turns out that because there aren’t many rules of the road in Benin (and all manor of vehilcles) and because the roads aren’t in great condition anyway, people are pretty cool on the road. I think everyone just sort of expects everyone else to do something dumb, in which case you will just go around them. The road was like a river and we seemed to be carried along in the current, intertwined with Zemis (the word for motorcycle) and cars, and people. No one can go very fast. I’d be surprised if I’ve traveled faster than 30 mph since arriving here. So even though Heidi and I certainly were passed often, it wasn’t the whooshing beeping hurry you would expect in the United States. I definitely was mostly, focusing on the road, then thinking about how thirsty I was, and then glowing with how awesome it was to be immersed in the traffic in Benin.

:)

Thanks for reading!
Lauren