Swear In

Hello Everyone!

Wow. Here we are. I can hardly believe it, but I have actually sworn in as a Peace Corps Volunteer! Who let that happen? On one hand I can see how I have worked so hard to get here, overcome so much, grown so much, and on the other hand it feels like the time has flown by, and I’ve really just shown up for classes and wondered what was for lunch. I guess that’s typical.

Yesterday my host family had an “Au Revoir dinner” for me, which strongly resembled Ornelia’s birthday. We had shishkabobs (a first for me in a Benin) and some strange starchy cakes, that might be called Ablo. The kids got soda and us ‘adults’ had beer. I was relieved that there wasn’t a cake. I didn’t really want a big fuss, and honestly I wasn’t ready for the good bye dinner and I didn’t have any presents ready for them! They gave me a dress/poncho which is apparently traditional for the area Papa is from, near Bohicon. It’s a little quirkier than most of the stuff they usually wear, but I’m all the happier to receive it. There’s a lizard embroidered on the front. (I did give them presents today, but I will get to that).

When I was eating dinner, I thought about all that had happened in my time with the host family. I thought about my first dinner, nervously trying to make conversation (only to find out later that conversation at the dinner table is generally considered rude). I thought about the morning when my little host sister Cena had to show me how to open the can of Nescafe. Then I thought about everything after that. I went to a party for a first communion and a party for a wedding. Cena lost a tooth, Jerro threw up on the floor one time, Ornelia had malaria for a little less than a week in there, Ornelia had a birthday, a baby came and visited regularly, a grandma visited, cousins came and left. We ate, we drank, we laughed, we watched soap operas. I can’t done being greatful to this family for opening their home to me. They have been so patient and loving. When I went to the couturier, or seamstress one time with my host mama, another mama talked with us there, when she found out who was hosting me she said I had a great host mama, “elle est gentile avec tout la monde” ‘she is kind to everyone’. That certainly is true and it stuck with me because of it.

Today we had the Swear In Ceremony. My dress was fabulous. The buses were slow. The Ambassador’s house is so mice and air conditioned, though the ceremony was outside. It took a long time to start. We had to wait for honorable invitees to arrive. The speeches were good and I was pleased with how well I could generally follow the French. As per tradition, trainee/volunteers also gave short speeches in Fon, Barbi, and Wama, which some have been studying since the beginning of July. Swearing in was a pretty quick process, and I had one of those “I don’t feel any different” moments. I think the realization comes a little more slowly. Still, we were all happy and excited. Little by little I am feeling ready to get to my post and get to work.

In the afternoon we got to shop in Cotonou a bit. I went to Erevans; the big, overpriced superstore where you can buy almost anything western. I had fun and spent a little too much money. Among the conquests was SPF 50 sunscreen, a great pillow, two sented candles, chopsticks, and cinnamon. I think I kept myself in check essentially. After that I went to a seed store and spent way too much money on papaya seeds. Those had better work out!

The drive back to Porto Novo was riddled with traffic and when we got back it was dark. The buses dropped us off at Songhai and we all said our goodbyes, or at least ‘see you later’s. It was a sad moment. A lot of little things have given me flash backs to leaving for the Peace Corps. This is partially encouraging, because that transition went well, all things considered. The dinner with my host family made me remember saliently my last dinner with my family, featuring surprise lobsters. Planning the trip to Erevans’ made me think of my last trip to Home depot, when it was hotter in Boston than in Benin and I wanted a knife sharpened (no correlation, I swear!). Saying goodbye just reminds me how great the people in my life are.

When I got back to my host family we had a fairly low key dinner. I wore my new poncho dress and gave them some small gifts from Erevans and some of the beads and string my mom sent for the kids. After dinner I watched the Indian soap opera Sheree for the last time (for better or worse). I said good night to my host parents and started down the hallway to go to my room. Cena met me in the hallway. I don’t think she said anything, I think she just stopped and looked up at me. I smiled and held out my hand and she took it. I told her I would come back for her birthday in January. She just sort of smiled and shuffled her feet. And then she kept holding my hand, standing there for probably ten minutes. I just let her. I was so touched and didn’t know what else to do. Her two younger brothers started joking around and pushing each other or just laughing. Cena and I laughed to, but we kept hanging on to each others hands. Finally Ornelia came by and told Cena that I needed to pack and go to bed. I asked Cena if she would wake up early to say good bye. She said yes, so I told her for now it wasn’t goodbye, just goodnight. The whole encounter was so wonderful and so heart breaking. I guess you never can fully know what you mean to people. I didn’t want to let go of her hand, but I guess it had to happen eventually.

I don’t often find myself saying that events have changed me, or made me grow measurably. I hope I haven’t lost anything that I was when I left Boston, I don’t think I have. However, I feel like I have surprised myself and stretched myself through all the adjustments that have been made so far. I can negotiate a fair price for a motorcycle taxi ride to my destination in a culturally appropriate way. I lived for two weeks in two cement rooms overrun with spiders. I’ve gotten to know and love a family that was once strangers. I have come to believe that I can succeed in my own apartment in rural, upcountry, Benin. (I sometimes think of the quote from Tim Burton’s Alica in Wonderland, ‘Sometimes I think of five impossible things before breakfast’).

Gratefulness is what I keep coming back to, and it is the most fitting. I feel so lucky to get to encounter these crazy challenges, and I feel grateful to share them with you.

On that note, sadly, this will be my last post from Porto Novo. Tomorrow morning (bright and early) I am heading up to Founougo. I have dreams of being able to update the blog weekly, but we will see what works out. In the mean time I think it will take at least a month to get some sort of routine figured out. I expect to be in touch with my parents, if you have any pressing comments or questions.

Thanks for sharing this journey with me. I look forward to seeing where it leads!

With love,

Lauren